Richard Childress Estate Vineyard gets its first crop
Wednesday, August 25th, 2004Grape harvest begins
By VIKKI BROUGHTON HODGES
The Dispatch
Along the rolling hills of Hampton Road in northwest Davidson County, the sight of a tobacco field is not uncommon.
But across the road from one tobacco field is an unexpected vision – a large home atop a hill surrounded by about 25 acres of grape vines being harvested by a little more than half a dozen people.
Monday was the first day of harvest at NASCAR team owner Richard Childress’ Estate Vineyard. The vines at his home were planted two years ago.
Mark Friszolowski, general manager and winemaker of Childress Vineyards, said the eight to 10 tons of grapes being picked from the estate will be used to produce the first vintage from Childress’ 35,000-square-foot winery at the intersection of Highways 52 and 64 West in Lexington, which will open this fall.
The grapes from the 25 acres of vineyards surrounding the winery were just planted this spring, so it may be a couple of years before that harvest takes place. A third source of grapes for Childress Vineyards will be Gianni Vineyards in Summerfield near the home of Greg Johns, who is Childress’ business partner in the winery.
The winery is expected to produce about 12,000 cases of wine this year, including five premium varietals, a red blend and three house wines.
The rest of the grapes for the 2004 vintage are being purchased from vineyards in Asheboro, Mt. Gilead, Lewisville, Pinnacle and Walnut Cove, among others.
“We have close to 170 tons contracted this year,” Friszolowski said, adding that the winery is purchasing grapes from about eight or nine growers who have vineyards ranging in size from three to 20 acres.
But Friszolowski said the harvest at the Childress estate vineyard will grow to about 80 tons next year.
“It’s actually very unusual to get any grapes the second year,” Friszolowski said, noting that it takes three years for vines to fully mature.
He and Matt Chobanian, vineyard manager for Childress Vineyards, both pronounced 2004 to be a very good year.
“I’ve been in this business 22 years, and the last best year was 1997, but I think this is going to be another one,” Chobanian said. “I think it’s going to be the best of the best.”
They said the combination of warm weather and just the right amount of precipitation made conditions nearly ideal for an early harvest this year.
Not that they didn’t encounter some challenges – such as birds that like to eat the grapes. “Bird cannons,” small devices set among the vines that make the sound of cannon shots at timed intervals, helped scare some of them away.
“The birds don’t eat them unless they’re ripe,” Friszolowski noted. “They’re really your first indication it’s time.”
He explained that other, more scientific gauges that measure the sugar level of the grapes, as well as other factors such as acidity, let them know when it’s the right day to start picking. The grapes at the estate vineyard includes merlot, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay, viognier, vidal blanc and chardonelle, a cross-breed of chardonnay and vidal.
In addition to birds, unpredictable weather can be a challenge to grape growing, Chobanian said. Too many late afternoon showers can make the water-absorbing clay soil too moist, he noted, especially in low-lying areas. Early morning frost in low-lying fields in the winter is another challenge, but a tall wind machine in one of the fields helps take care of that.
Chobanian noted that he employed a unique trellis system, about two feet higher than most, to give grapes longer “hang time” to fully ripen and improve the flavor profile at the end of the growing cycle.
As he discussed purchasing grapes from other vineyards to meet production goals, Friszolowski said he would like to see more vineyards in Davidson County. As he looked across the road at a tobacco field, he said, “I’d love to see that planted in vidal.”
Friszolowski said he believes more vineyards will develop locally as demand for grapes grows due to the Childress winery and other wineries in the Yadkin Valley.
“I think once the winery opens, you’re going to see a lot of people wanting to plant grapes,” he said.
Amy-Lynn Albertson, horticulture extension agent with the Davidson County Cooperative Extension Service, confirmed that the interest is growing. She said her office has offered annual seminars each year about what it takes to operate a vineyard, with about 40 people attending in 2002, 65 in 2003 and 70 this year.
“I’ve probably done 20 site evaluations just in the past year,” she said of visiting possible vineyard sites to determine their viability.
Albertson said there are now four small vineyards in the county, but the oldest one is only four years old and the only one producing grapes yet, noting the typical three years it takes for vines to mature.
“It’s definitely a long-term investment and very expensive to get into,” she said, noting that she recommends budgeting $10,000 per acre to get a vineyard off the ground. “It’s also labor intensive. All that pruning and harvesting is by hand.
“There’s a lot of romance to growing grapes – I try to dispel that,” she said, noting that most of the seminar attendees are not from an agricultural background. “You can’t be a weekend farmer. But even after the budget talk, people don’t walk out.”
Albertson said some former tobacco farmers, especially in Yadkin County, have been successful in switching from the golden leaf to grapes, but she noted “it’s not the easy money tobacco is.”
“I don’t agree it’s the new tobacco,” she said. “I’m not sure we’ll ever see a golden crop like that again. But it can be an alternative for some people.”
Albertson said the Piedmont is actually well-suited for vineyards, especially the northern part of Davidson County, because of its soil type and elevation.
“We have great soil and good climate,” she said, noting that the number of wineries in the state has doubled in the past four years.
“That has made a lot of people think about grapes that hadn’t before,” she said. “And I think it’s great that Childress Vineyards is open to the idea of buying local grapes. We’re really excited about the new winery.”