Ashley Myers, grape pathology extension specialist, and Tony Wolf, viticulture extension specialist
The following is a summary of comments made by Ashley Myers at the Chateau OBrien vineyard meeting, 9 August 2006

For Mid-Atlantic grape growers, the possibility of a hurricane or tropical storm just before harvest is a chronic concern. Ernesto is the current threat, but there may be others this season, and there will certainly be more in future years. The major threats are rain and wind, with rain generally being the greater problem. In coastal areas, wind-blown sea salt can also cause injury to vines. Wind can damage fruit and with heavy crops and sodden soils, it can blow down trellises, either directly or from spin-off, tornadic winds. The effect of rain varies with duration and amount that falls. Heavy rain could cause flooding, bruise fruit, cause a sudden uptake in water, and increase the likelihood of berry splitting, fruit rots, and foliar downy mildew. Even in situations were the vineyard doesn’t flood the ground can become saturated with water, preventing heavy equipment from entering the vineyard for spraying or harvesting. A sudden uptake in water decreases the soluble solids concentration in the fruit. A general observation is that 1 to 2 inches of rain can decrease soluble solids 1 to 2 degrees Brix within 24 hours, and it will take approximately 1 week (depending on weather) to regain 1 degree Brix. These responses vary, however, by variety.
In addition to possible wind damage, and the amount of rainfall, other factors will affect the extent of problems caused by hurricanes or other tropical depressions. How fast the storm is moving, what the weather will be after the storm, the degree of berry ripeness, general condition of fruit going into the storm, and amount of disease inoculum present in the vineyard may all have a bearing on the final outcome. For example, a fast-moving tropical depression might dump several inches of rain but be quickly followed by a shift in weather that leads to rapid drying of foliage and fruit. In this case the crop damage might be minor. On the other hand, a protracted period of rainy weather followed by hot, steamy conditions, is a recipe for extensive fruit rot problems, particularly with very ripe fruit or fruit that previously sustained injury from insects, birds, or fungal disease. Generally, fruit that is in great shape going into inclement weather will fare better than fruit that is already compromised by other problems. The local (Winchester) forecast for Ernesto, for example, suggests that the remnants of the tropical depression will move through only to be followed by several more days of unsettled weather, with thunderstorms possible through mid-week of next week. That might suggest greater problems than if the weather were forecast to rapidly clear. What condition is your canopy in? Moderately to well-exposed fruit will often fare better than poorly exposed fruit from the standpoint of rot potential.
Talk to your winemaker to find out what they would prefer and what they can work with, particularly when Brix, acid, or flavors may be less than optimal. Do they have the time and the space to take the grapes if you pick early? Can they declassify or produce a separate label that will not compromise a quality reputation they have previously achieved with your fruit? How risk-adverse you are? Are you able to risk your crop for a certain standard and potentially much less fruit, or are you more able to accept a lower standard and/or lower price per ton but a guaranteed harvest? Have you already harvested your flagship or cash cow grapes? Do you have crop insurance? What is the wine style? For example, a relatively neutral Chardonnay or Pinot gris caused by early picking might not be as offensive as an herbaceous, under-ripe Cabernet franc. What does your past experience tell you?
At some point you must act. This may mean doing nothing but keeping your fingers crossed. Other options are to spray one or more fungicides to reduce the incidence of disease. If you choose to spray, the main targets would be fruit rots and foliar downy mildew. If the storm brings humid air but little rain, foliar powdery mildew may also be an issue. To target fruit rots before the tropical storm arrives with less than 2 weeks to harvest, captan (0 d PHI, 3 d REI) is an option. With more than 2 weeks to harvest, before and/or after a tropical storm, Nova or Elite (14 d PHI, 3 d REI) and Pristine (14 d PHI, 24 h REI) are options. Oxidate is also labeled for control of some rot diseases and has a 0 d PHI, 0 h REI. Foliar downy and powdery mildew would be less of a concern at this point in the season than would fruit rots; however, if it is necessary to apply a powdery or downy mildew controlling fungicide just prior to harvest some options are available. To target downy mildew, Prophyt (0 d PHI, 4 h REI) and captan (0 d PHI, 3 d REI) are best pre-harvest. To target powdery mildew pre-harvest, Oxidate (0 d PHI, 0 h REI) and Armicarb/Kaligreen (1 d PHI, 4 h REI) are best. It would not be too late to jump back into a vineyard after a heavy rain event and do some follow-up leaf or lateral thinning to improve canopy ventilation and fruit drying.
There are no easy solutions with these storms and each situation (vineyard management and rain event) has to be evaluated on its own variables.
*

Tony Wolf
Viticulture Extension Specialist

So sitting up here in Michigan reading about the predictions ofr 7-12″ of rain in the foothills from the remains of Hurricane Ernesto? That will no tbe good for the harvest..maybe it’s a little early for the reds, but the whites should be hit pretty good. Thankfully my weather station is still working so I should get an accurate read on the amount of rain that we get in State Road.

Post your comments with how much rain you think we’ll get. I think the storm might be a bit east of us, perhaps only dumping 5″ of rain or so. That’s my guess. Any more than that, and the Elkin Rec Center will be under water again….10″ or more and the whole town will be swimming.

Yah, growing grapes in North Carolina is a big cash crop. Right.

Jen and I have decided to stay in Michigan awhile longer, too much work and not enough play! I’m sure my wines are going to be full of Downey when I get back, and everything will be overgrown north carolina style…my helper is down for a while with some health issues, so all in all…it’s gotten away from me again for a thrid straight year!!

Next year I will be ready with more help, more fencing and a new sprayer….that will be good!

This doesn’t really qualify as a viticultural post per se, but since I am platning more and more flowers in and around the vineyard, in my mind it qualifies.

Next year, I am reducing the size of my vegetable garden. I don’t need three rows of green beans, 6 rows of corn, two rows of soybeans, it’s all very unnecessary. Green beans are a lot of work. I think I’ll just raise what we can consume and then perhaps raise different varietals so we have beans all summer long. Same thing with the corn. I’m tired of canning and I don’t have the storage or freezer space…

What I do enjoy are flowers. I like growing them, I like smelling them, I like that they provide happiness for many weeks and I like that they are relatively low maintenance as opposed to beans and corn which deer and beetles seem to love. So next year, I am growing more flowers and less vegetables!!

My problem is how to preserve cut flowers as most of my flowers only last a few days and then they smell. Turns out I’ve been doing things wrong and this article will help me and all of you extend the life of your cut flowers!! Enjoy!

As we all know, flowers are highly perishable. That’s part of what makes them so special. Usually our goal is to extend the life of the flowers for as long as possible after they are cut. Here’s some great tips on how to do so from Jeanne Rose which appeared in the Visalia Times-Delta:

Several years ago I took a few college-level classes in floral design, where we were taught the proper care of cut flowers from the time they were harvested until the final arrangements were made.

The first step in this care, after cutting, was to place the flowers into lukewarm water immediately after they were cut.

Since then, I have learned that Dr. Allan Armitage, a professor of horticulture at the University of Georgia, has conducted many years of extensive research on when to harvest flowers and how to extend their vase life for cut-flower growers. His research efforts suggest variances from a number of commonly used practices.
Commercial cut-flower growers usually harvest just as buds begin to show color, which reduces shipping space and causes less damage than would occur with open flowers. Home gardeners can also follow this practice for the longest vase life.

There are some exceptions, though. Spike flowers, such as delphiniums, should have at least a few flowers fully open before they are cut; flowers of the daisy family won’t continue to open if they are not fully open before they are cut.

If flowers are cut for a one-time display at a special event, they can be cut at whatever stage is desired.

When flowers are first cut, plunging them into deep, cool water up to their necks lowers the temperature of the stems and petals, crisps the flowers and slows dehydration and decay. The life of most flowers can be lengthened significantly if, before arranging, they are conditioned in a refrigerator or cooler with a temperature of 38-40 degrees for six or more hours.

After arranging the flowers, the water should be six inches or less deep so there is unimpeded air circulation among the stems. Here, too, there are exceptions. Astilbes can last 12 days instead of two to four if they are placed in hot water first, allowed to cool, and then refrigerated.

Good sanitation — of buckets, pruners, and water — cuts down on the growth of bacteria, which plug the stem ends, preventing the uptake of water, and the flowers die of thirst. Commercial cut-flower preservatives prevent bacteria from growing and extend the life of bouquets up to 75 percent when used in the proportions given on product labels.

The University of California has also developed recipes for two cut-flower preservatives. They are:

1. 1 part lemon-lime soda, 3 parts water, and quarter teaspoon bleach per quart

2. 2 tablespoons lemon juice or bottled “Real Lemon,” 1 teaspoon sugar, quarter teaspoon bleach, 9 parts water.

Not all flowers benefit dramatically and a few are even harmed by the use of preservatives. With daffodils it makes no difference; however, they do last longer in a cool location.

Sorry to disappoint all of those vineyard owners who were so excited that I was retiring from writing my column for On The Vine. Things have turned around at Villa Kleinheksel (for the moment) and I am juiced to start writing again. Maybe all I wanted was a reason for Rebel to call me? Who knows. Either way I am back in the saddle and gearing up for another column!

Go visit Derril Rice’s new winery, it just opened, tell me what you think, I have not been there yet!

Note to self:

Go to 12251 james Street, ask for a couple Bac T bottles, circle e.coli, the test costs $15.00

If there are problems at “Fallen Leaf Park” here:

http://www.miottawa.org/SwimmingAdvisory/beach.jsp

than Rosewood has issues asw well.

These are my third year vines.  They look pretty good right now.  I have planted some catawba vines at the ends of the rows, but I don’t think I would do that again.  Those vines grow everywhere.

This is the view from my second year vines which overlook my house and the third year vines.  The second year vines have just been pruned back, but as you can see they are all getting up to the fruiting wire!

And here is a bonus picture of my wife Jennifer in here Beauty and the Beast Costume – she was Babette / The Feather Duster.

Well last fall’s lime has really kicked in…the plants are now doing spectacular. There is still a Potassium problem, but overall I would say 85% or more of the plants have made it to the wire and many far beyond. Leaves are healthy and the plants appear relatively disease free. I’m hoping the beetles are about over.

My 3rd year plants are also looking pretty good. I have some trellising adjustments and enhancements to make for next year, but despite the Potassium issues, the plants are healthy. The fruit isn’t so hot due to my earlier issues with Powdery Mildew, but I don’t really have any use for the fruit this year anyways.

Next year will be quite a year for fruit…I should take quite a crop if I can get all my ducks in a row. My new sprayer should make a world of difference!

Now the challenge will be keeping Downey out of the vineyard. I’ve failed miserably on this in the past…not so bad last year, but the year before was not good.