Preparing for ‘Open That Bottle Night’
Stirs Up Memories; a Chianti’s Odyssey
February 4, 2005; Page W1
The power of wine to create and evoke memories never ceases to astonish us. Just ask Ed Miner of Lakewood, N.Y. It was 35 years ago, at the fabled Oak Room in the Plaza Hotel in New York City. “Clearly out of my league in every way, including price, and desperate to impress my young bride, I fumbled pitiably when asked about wine,” he recalls. “The steward took no outward note of my distress, but said that he had something we might enjoy. He brought back a lovely bottle of Sancerre or Meursault, ceremoniously opened and poured and declared it a gift to celebrate our occasion. I tipped him with my last $5. The memory and my appreciation have lasted 32 years longer than that marriage.”
Memories — making them and reveling in them — is what Open That Bottle Night is all about. OTBN 6 is just around the corner: Saturday, Feb. 26. We created OTBN in 1999 for a simple reason: All of us have that one bottle of wine that is so special to us that we plan to open it on an important occasion, but never do. On OTBN, as a world-wide community, we prepare a special meal, finally open that bottle, and celebrate the memories.
Making Magic
Magical things happen on OTBN. Amanda Heagy of Alexandria, Va., first read about OTBN two years ago. “I thought it was a wonderful idea and decided to have a few friends over so that we could each share our bottles and the stories that went with them,” she told us. “One of my friends thought it would be a nice way to get to know his new roommate if he brought him along. That was the night that John and I first met. We talked all night long. Recently, John and I took our first trip to Napa and Sonoma. During the middle of our trip, while visiting Schramsberg Vineyards, John got down on one knee and asked me to marry him — and I, happily, said yes!”
OTBN has also become a time for family and friends to get together to celebrate friends and family — even family that is far away (see the accompanying listing0).
We believe any night can be Open That Bottle Night. Cherished wines should be opened for no reason at all. One of our favorite scenes in the movie “Sideways” is when wine-loving Miles tells the more-romantic Maya that he is saving a 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc for a special occasion. She replies: “The day you open a ‘61 Cheval Blanc, that’s the special occasion.” Randy Fish of Spring, Texas, understands that. He bought a special Chianti in Rome in 2001 and planned to open it with his girlfriend on OTBN 4, two years ago. After that relationship soured, he planned to open it on OTBN 5, during the wedding festivities for a friend. But the wedding got in the way, so the next morning they met at the airport to open the wine, but they didn’t have a corkscrew. When Randy traveled to Providence, R.I., to visit those friends recently, they finally opened the bottle. How was it? “Incredible.”
Listen to the wisdom of Paul Marvin of Houston. “While I was at the office late,” he wrote, “my wife had the neighbors over for some pasta. When I arrived home, everyone had gone to bed, but I noticed an open bottle on the counter. I had brought it home after my family had shared bottles from the same case at my brother-in-law’s passing away. It was the bottle of red Italian wine with the sticker on the neck — but I guess I was the only one who knew the sticker meant SAVE PLEASE. At least I had the chance to have a glass alone with his spirit. It just proves what you have said for years: Don’t wait for OTBN. You never know when either you, or that bottle, might be gone.”
Finally, remember that you don’t have to open some cherished old bottle. It’s the memories that count. In 1999, we wrote that the best Zinfandel we’d had in a decade was a 1992 Ravenswood “Dickerson,” which brought a note from Bill Dickerson, who said, in effect, “If you like what Ravenswood does with my grapes, you should taste my own wine.” It turned out that Dr. Dickerson, a psychiatrist, bottled a small amount of wine from his vineyard in Napa under his own label. The next year, we invited Dr. Dickerson to our “Vintners’ Open That Bottle Night” in St. Helena and he brought two amazing Zinfandels: a 1916 from Italian Swiss Colony and a 1947 given to him by Louis Martini. The local newspaper ran a picture the next day of Dr. Dickerson uncorking the 1916 wine with Dottie’s help.
Standing the Test of Time
One of the most remarkable experiences of the following year was finding Dr. Dickerson’s 1989 Ruby Cabernet — a very unusual wine — at Crabtree’s Kittle House, a restaurant in Chappaqua, N.Y. It was delicious and when we called Dr. Dickerson to tell him about it, he was excited to hear how well it had stood the test of time. We became regular correspondents after that. This past Halloween, he sent us pictures of his grandchildren.
On Dec. 26, Dr. Dickerson was killed in the tsunami while he and his wife, Jane, were vacationing in Thailand. She is still missing and presumed dead. When we heard this, we went back to the Kittle House, but it no longer had the Dickerson Vineyard Ruby Cabernet. Instead, we ordered a bottle of 1989 Ravenswood “Dickerson” and it was beautiful, with relaxed, rich fruit, great structure and the elegance of a fine old Bordeaux. Here’s to you, Bill.
So, how do you do OTBN? If you’re planning to open that special old bottle — and, really, if not now, when? — here’s a step-by-step guide:
1. Stand the wine up (away from light and heat, of course) for a few days before you plan to open it — say, on Wednesday, Feb. 23. This will allow the sediment, if there is some, to sink to the bottom.
2. Both reds and whites are often better closer to cellar temperature (around 55 degrees). Don’t overchill the white, and think about putting the red in the refrigerator for an hour or two if you’ve been keeping it in a 70-degree house.
3. With an old bottle, the cork may break easily. The best opener for a cork like that is the one with two prongs, but it requires some skill. You have three weeks to practice using one. Be prepared for the possibility that the cork will fall apart with a regular corkscrew. If that happens, have a carafe and a coffee filter handy. Just pour enough through the coffee filter to catch the cork.
4. Otherwise, do not decant. We’re assuming these are old and fragile wines. Air could quickly dispel what’s left of them.
5. Have a backup wine ready for your special meal, in case your old wine really has gone bad.
6. Serve dinner. Then open the wine and immediately take a sip. If it’s truly bad — we mean vinegar — you will know it right away. But even if the wine doesn’t taste good at first, don’t rush to the sink to pour it out. You never know what might happen, as Bruce Ahler of Viburnum, Mo., discovered recently when visiting some friends in South Africa. “They had a small party one evening and the wine was flowing freely. My friend Jim mentioned a bottle of wine that he had been saving for a ’special occasion’ for years and years. I told him of reading your story of how these old wines should be opened and enjoyed rather than sitting in the cellar until they are forgotten. So this special bottle is produced: a 1976 Simonsig Pinotage. The wine had sort of a murky color and a little sediment. It was tasted almost immediately after pouring and it had a very flat, smoky taste — not undrinkable, but certainly not a good wine. I set the glass aside and after about 15 minutes or so I decided to take another taste. And WOW! The smoky taste was still there, but it had developed into a wonderful, deep and complex, grapey taste. I can honestly say that it was like no wine I have ever tasted.”
7. Talk about the person who gave you the wine, or the circumstances under which you received it. This makes the wine resonate in a very sweet and personal way.
8. Enjoy the wine for what it is, not what it might be or might once have been.
9. Save one last glass in the bottle.
10. After the dishes are done, pour the remainder of the wine into your glasses (you might pour it through the coffee filter if there’s a great deal of sediment, though, personally, we often like the gutsy taste of the wine with the sediment). Then drink up, and enjoy those very last moments of a special night.
11. Drop us a note at wine@wsj.com1 about your evening. If we include your name in our follow-up column, we’ll send you an autographed copy of our book, “Wine for Every Day and Every Occasion: Red, White, and Bubbly to Celebrate the Joy of Living.”
A Family Affair
To the Richman family, Open That Bottle Night is what they call “an East Coast family tradition,” celebrated together — even though Terry and Ted live in Rochester, N.Y., and their daughter, Lisa, lives in Pinehurst, N.C. Here are their stories:
Terry and Ted: Rochester averages around 100 inches of snow each year, and by February everyone is pretty tired of winter. The holidays are past and this occasion gives us something to celebrate — good food, good wine and good friendship. We generally serve dinner at our party and use the evening as an opportunity to invite interesting people we have met during the year and a few old friends. Last year’s menu: fresh spring rolls; curried egg salad (very mild); tuna and peach salsa in endive; marinated asparagus, grape tomatoes and mushrooms; mango chicken; noodle kugel with nuts and raisins; Icewine; pie and coffee.
Last year, we invited guests from all different walks of life. From the first moment, the conversation flowed because everyone has a story and something to talk about. There are always pleasant surprises and often the beginning of wonderful friendships. One couple we have known slightly for some time and would like to know better brought a bottle of Madeira in tribute to the husband’s Portuguese heritage and in homage to the family business, which his brother still runs in Portugal. His wife talked a bit about the family history. This man is charming but unassuming. Without this event, we would never have known about his rich heritage.
It is great fun to plan our mutual OTBN evenings with Lisa, even though she is far away. We trade ideas and successes and feel a little bit closer to each other for it.
Lisa: My parents’ parties sounded like so much fun, and since I have many wine-loving friends, I decided to have my first OTBN party last year.
Now, I will be having one every year just like my folks.
Everyone came in and signed a book with their name and their wine, then they found their wine glass denoted with a personalized wine-glass charm. I chose to have tapas instead of a formal dinner and I used a small bike horn to get everyone’s attention when we took the floor to introduce each wine. There were great stories — one bottle was given to a friend upon his graduation from West Point, and he had moved all over the country with it, just waiting for the perfect opportunity to drink it. I was honored he chose my party after so many years of waiting.
I was not concerned that I already drank my “saved bottle” last year because a friend from the Champagne region of France gave me a bottle of Champagne in June. My friend thought it odd that I would be saving the bottle for the next year and already had a specific date picked out. After I explained the OTBN event, he thought it was a wonderful idea.
I am looking forward to two evenings — mine and my parents’ — of stories, wine, friendship, food and laughter.